Ferragosto

[I reprint this post each year at the start of the summer as a reminder to travelers who are heading to Italy for the summer]

Ferragosto is the Italian holiday that takes place in August -- you can pretty much hedge your bets that most things are going to be closed as Italians head to the mountains, lakes and beaches for some much needed rest and relaxation.

The holiday is a curious one for many reasons, one of which is during the entire month of August, most of Italy closes down except for the tourist areas, hotels and restaurants. Most businesses close so that their employees can enjoy the month of August for some much needed R&R!

Second, the holiday began in ancient Roman times when in 18 BC, the emperor Augustus declared that the month of August would be dedicated to the Feriae Augusti - a slew of festivals that honored the goddess Diana, who served as the protector of labor. The month of August also honored the gods Vortumnus and the Opeconsiva, two gods who were worshiped to ensure that there would be an abundant crop, an excellent harvest, and fruitful seasons and safe weather to ensure that the crops would be bountiful.

Diana was also the goddess of maternity, and the 13th of August was the most important day. The ancient Roman holiday was a celebration of maternity and fertility -- whether it was in the fields with their abundant crops, or in the bedroom with lots of (male) children to carry on the family line! The 13th of August featured religious services which honored the goddess Diana -- with both men and women hoping for fertile fields and fertile wives.

In Christianity, August is believed to be the month in which the Virgin rose to heaven. Pope Piux XII in 1950 cemented this into the church's canon, although the idea that August was the month of the Virgin began to take shape in the 1700's. The Virgin was the one that Christians turned to and prayed to for a good harvest and an abundant crop, taking over the "role" of the ancient gods who originally served that purpose.

Now the modern holiday is a time of rest and relaxation where the entire country slows down and Italians enjoy their summer holidays. August is also the hottest month of the year, and Italians generally flee their cities. The religious aspects of the holiday definitely take a "back seat" to many Italians who see this as a time of rest, relaxation and beating the heat.

You'll tend to see more tourists than Italians in the major cities since many of them are at the beach. If going to the beach, lakes, mountains or other popular (and cooler) destinations are on your itinerary, expect a lot of traffic and crowds. If super hot weather, crowds and tourists and finding a lot of things closed bothers you, best to avoid Italy in August and wait until September or October for your vacation or earlier in the late spring. Ferragosto is something to keep in mind as you plan your trip to Italy.

*photo courtesy of Bryan Schneider - http://2italy.blogspot.com,
http://www.picenohomeservices.com

Gone Fishin'!

I haven't really gone fishing!

I'm going to away from until the first week of July - heading to Italy for some R&R!

I will respond to any emails and queries when I return.

You can follow the progress of my trip on my travel blog, My Roman Holiday:

http://www.myromanholiday.com

Hostelling in Rome

If you want to live La Dolce Vita for less, steer clear of Rome’s overpriced hotels – blow your budget on accommodation, and you’ll have a lot less to spend on sightseeing and scoffing gelato!

More and more travelers are cutting back and choosing hostels rather than traditional hotels, tempted by the low prices and improved facilities of what was only a stop-off for backpackers and cash-strapped students.

The rise of the ‘flashpacker’ (tech-savvy travelers, or backpackers with more money to burn) demanding better facilities and private rooms means that budget accommodation in Rome is often cheaper and better equipped than some of the chicer hotels.

But no matter how ‘flash’ your hostel may be, your first foray into budget accommodation can still be daunting - whether it’s booking a room or coping with shared dorms. To help all of you first-time hostelers out there, here are my top tips for hosteling in Rome.

1. Booking a Bed
   
   One of the advantages of hostels are that you can often turn up unannounced and find a bed, perfect if you have to stay an extra night in a city, or if your travel plans are disrupted. But I wouldn’t recommend just ‘turning up’ for an extended holiday in Rome – the city is hugely popular on the backpacker trail and beds fill up very quickly, especially in peak season (Easter, Spring, Summer).
   
   If you fancy a spontaneous city break, expect to compromise on what kind of hostel you stay in and the facilities available – you could find yourself strung out on the outskirts of the city in a cramped dorm!
   
   Plan your trip well in advance, and book online for cheaper prices– I’d recommend using booking websites like HostelBookers where you can see plenty of pictures of the hostel, user reviews and ratings, and maps so you know where you are going to be staying. Avoid any sites with a booking and joining fee as well!
   
   Usually, you pay a deposit or a fraction of the price online first, and then the rest when you turn up at the hostel. Most hostels in major cities like Rome will have card machines, but I would bring some Euros just in case.
   
   
2. Choosing a Hostel
   
   This is the trickiest part of all, as there are a whole range of hostels in Rome. There are several youth hostels in Rome which cater to students and backpackers- the cheapest option. These usually have shared dorms and bathrooms, and often have a ‘lock out’ so you can’t hang around in your room during the day.
   
   ‘Party Hostels’ are along the same lines, but often have a jam-packed social calendar, a bar on site with cheap drinks, and no curfew, so it’s perfectly acceptable to stumble in at 2am.
   
   Guesthouses and B&Bs are usually smaller, family-run versions of hotels, often in beautiful converted old homes, and with great extras like home-cooked breakfasts.
   
   Boutique hostels are stylish and slick hostels, usually with a selection of private or shared rooms, a great range of facilities (such as self-catered kitchens, lounges and internet cafés) and cool interiors.
   
   
3. Things to Look Out For
   
   The best way to identify a good hostel is to read up on other travelers reviews, and to look at the hostel facilities. The best hostels usually have a combination of the following – a choice of private and shared rooms, a kitchen and social space such as a lounge, hot showers, an international, 24-hour reception or help desk, a free luggage room and lockers for personal belongings, linen and towels, and internet facilities.
   
   Other extras to look out for include free breakfasts, social events and excursions, free city tours or maps, bars and restaurants, and even the occasional luxury extra such as jacuzzis and pools!
   
   
4. Where in Rome
   
   Although Rome is easy to explore on foot, check where your hostel is before you book. Many of Rome’s hostels are in a cluster of streets close to the train station and the University, which is ideal if you are arriving late at night. The Termini area may have a reputation for being a little dodgy at night, but in my experience most of the hostels are on the quieter and safer side of the station and are ideally located for walking to the main sites in central Rome.
   
   
5. Hostel Etiquette
   
   There are a couple of hostel faux-pas that should be avoided, especially if you are sharing a dorm with strangers. The key thing to be considerate, so don’t return to your room loud and drunk late at night, or have ‘amorous’ evenings with a loved one in your dorm bed (trust me, it has happened before!).
   
   If the hostel has shared facilities like internet or a kitchen, just use your common sense - don’t hog the computers for hours or leave the kitchen in a mess.
   
   Otherwise, relax, be friendly and you’ll be fine with your new-found roommates – hostels are a great place to meet like-minded people, and the staff are usually friendly fellow travelers or locals. Don’t be afraid to ask them for tips or advice! It’s rare that you’ll have any problems, but if you do have some uncooperative roommates, just speak to the hostel staff and they will help you out.
   
   
6. My Top Hostels
   
   There are a couple of hostels in Rome that really stand out. The two Alessandro Hostels – the Alessandro Palace and Bar and the Alessandro Downtown, have some of the friendliest and most helpful hostel staff I have ever met.
   
   In converted apartment buildings, the rooms are very spacious and both host lots of social events and free food – when I was staying there we never ate out, because we got breakfast (lots of fresh bread and fruit) and a home-cooked Italian dinner for free!
   
   The Yellow Youth Hotel is chicer than your average party hostel, and the homely Blues B&B is ideal for couples or families.
   

Lauren Smith writes for HostelBloggers, the Insider’s Guide to Budget Travel. When she’s not finding the latest scoop on bargain holidays, she tries to tour Europe on the cheap!

Having Fun In Rome Doesn't Have To Be Expensive!

I recently wrote a post where I answered a student's question about going to Rome and how to do it when you're a student (that is, on a budget), and you don't have a lot of money to have a great time.

You can enjoy yourself and find affordable lodging and have great meals without going bankrupt or maxing out your credit cards!

I recently came across this blog, Hostel Bloggers, which looks to be an awesome resource for students and hostel lovers!

Sometimes I come up with ideas for posts, and then I come across a blog that has already taken a similar idea (like the post on driving that was published on Italylogue) that I've had and has done a wonderful job. So instead of re-inventing the proverbial wheel, I think it works just as well to highlight the efforts of others.

You should check out the post yourself, entitled "10 Things to DO in Rome for $10". They highlight ten things that you can do in Rome for under $10 each, and a few of their suggestions I have never done before (but plan to when I return to Rome next month!). It's an informative and useful post!

Please visit the blog (they also blog about other cities and destinations!) and check out their post which has some excellent (and inexpensive) options on inexpensive things you can do to make the most of your trip to Rome (while at the same time saving money and having a great experience).

Check out this video they put together:

photo: Saint Peter's Basilica (photo in the public domain)

How To Find Things To Do In Rome?

Guidebooks are great tools for general things to do - like museums and archaeological sites - but it is hard for a decent guidebook to know what is going on when you'll be in Rome! Guidebooks offer general ideas of things that you can do to occupy your time so I want to write about how you can find things that are happening in Rome when you intend to be there!

Museum exhibitions, gallery openings, concerts and other things are typically planned after your guidebook has been published. If they include any kind of events, they tend to be regular planned festivals or events that are held yearly at the same time so unless you plan your trip around these events, you might be at a loss - what do you do after you've seen many of the sites suggested in your guidebook? I love museums and archaeological sites, but I think that when you go to Rome it's always fun to do things that get you out and about with the locals!

Below is a list of resources and web sites you can consult while you're in Rome for things to do that might not know about from your standard guidebook:

1. My favorite way of scoping out the Eternal City when I'm not there is with some cool blogs. There are some great blogs and web sites maintained not only by expats but also actual Italians. It's not hard to find blogs in English, and there are a few listed in the sidebar of this blog. I mention them because most of the content is contemporary and up-to-date, and most of these bloggers are always blogging about something hot and exciting that is going on. It's definitely a great way to find things to do for your trip!
   
   Some suggested blogs on Rome:
   
   • Knowing Rome
   • RomePhotoBlog
   • The Roman Forum
   • Hide Side of Rome
   • Una gita fuori porta (in Italian)
   • roma...amor (in Italian)
     
   
   
2. Roma C'è is a really great resource, and it is one that many of my Roman friends say is one of the best resources. They have a great web site, but the print publication tends to be more accurate and might be easier to get your hands on, especially if you haven't brought a computer with you (who wants to spend their vacation in an internet cafe, but their web site is well laid out so the choice is yours!) They also have a section of the publication in English so if you're worried about getting through the Italian section, have no fear. Roma C'è is a great resource for finding out what's going on. It's published every Wednesday and available at newsstands for 1 euro. You can probably find one at your hotel or lodgings, too.
   
   Roma C'è is also a great resource on things to do at night, so if you're into the nightlife or want to see what it is all about in Rome, then this is a great place to start.
   
   
3. Newspapers, specially La Repubblica (La Repubblica also publishes local editions, so if you find yourself outside of Rome, this can be a great resource in Milan and other cities in Italy) and Il Messaggero - both of which cater to readers in Rome and Lazio. Both newspapers (and their web sites) have section on things that are going on, and they tend to do pieces and stories on things that are happening or will soon be happening, and you're bound to find something. These papers are easy to procure, and, if you're staying in a hotel, you can probably get one sent up to your room.
   
   La Repubblica publishes something similar to Roma C'è called TrovaRoma -- this might also offer some ideas, but Roma C'è is considered by most Romans to be the better publication.
   
   
4. Your Concierge is a great resource for knowing what's on in Rome, but this will be more available to those who are staying at hotels. If you're renting an apartment, ask your landlord if he/she knows of anything that is going on or has suggestions on some things to do. Most Italians are pretty eager to make suggestions as they really want your trip to be a memorable one!
   
   
5. The TV can sometimes be a useful resource, especially news programs that might highlight events going on in the city of particular advertisements. I don't advocate sitting in front of your TV waiting for an idea, but it might be something to do before you head to bed, that is assuming you have a TV in your room or wherever you are staying.
   
   
6. Some web sites maintained by the local Italian government can be useful, such L'Estate Romana (as of the publication of this post, it hasn't been updated for 2009 yet), or 060608 (a collection of events usually with links to purchasing tickets as well as directions and other information). I also enjoy Cultura Romana. The Italian Government Tourist Board (ENIT) is also a great resource for pre-trip preparations.
   

"La mente di Leonardo" at the Palazzo Venezia

At the Palazzo Venezia until August 30, 2009 is the exhibit, La mente di Leonardo or The Mind of Leonardo.

The exhibit looks at the works of Leonardo as a way of providing visitors to the exhibition with a glimpse into how this icon of the Italian Renaissance and our world's cultural heritage thought and conceived his ideas. The show hopes to recreate the "creative personality" of Leonardo as a way of learning more about his methodology - a man who was not only an artist but a scientist, writer, philosopher and engineer.

The exhibition is located at the Palazzo Venezia (Museo nazionale di Palazzo Venezia), Via del Plebiscito 118 (see map below). The exhibit is open from 10am until 7pm (closed Mondays). Remember that ticket windows/box offices close an hour before the museum/exhibit closes.

Tickets cost 9 euro.

There's no metro stop near the museum, but it's a short walk a few block south of the Trevi Fountain. The Piazza Venezia, where the museum is located, is not hard to find or reach and is most definitely on your map.


View Palazzo Venezia in a larger map

My Local Guide -- Rome

I recently stumbled upon this guidebook after reading about its debut on another blog about Rome, RomePhotoBlog. The concept of a guidebook written solely by inhabitants of Rome (Italian and non-Italians) fascinated me, and my curiosity got the better of me, and I just had to buy a copy of this book.

Written by inhabitants of the city rather than visitors, this guidebook on Rome (they also have guidebooks for other Italian cities - Venice, Florence, Milan, Turin, etc.) is available both in English and in Italian and features a wealth of recommendations and ideas for your trip to the Eternal City.

The book is divided into sections such as Shopping, Eating and Drinking, Art and Culture, and more, with each section having a couple of "ambassadors" who provide recommendations on things that they might do in the city - such as giving you the skinny on the best and most authentic of restaurants, off the beaten track museums and sites to visit, as well as the best places to shop. I find that the first person consiglio (advice) provides a very personal touch to the book that is absent in many other publications.

Like your standard guidebook, there is an index which contains practical information such as phone numbers, places to sleep, information on important museums. Another of my favorite chapters is called "24 ore a Roma" with two inhabitants giving itineraries are some things that you must do if you have a day in Rome - they highlight some pretty unique places that a standard guidebook might have you avoid. The section is framed in a series of questions, as if the person writing would be your guide for the day, with questions such as "What would we do for lunch?" or "What should I see first?".

The end of the book has some decent maps of the city, and places that are discussed in the book are referenced on the maps so there's no guessing as to where things are. The book also does a good job by telling you the best way to reach a certain place, like when it is near a certain metro stop or which bus to take. You might say that most guidebooks do this, but most guidebooks don't always provide the best map references, and who better to give you directions around the city than someone who lives full-time in Rome.